The Caribbean Sunset Alpine Stitch Bag was born because I have always wanted to use the Alpine Stitch in a project but just didn’t know what project. This crochet bag is perfect for use as a beach bag, a park bag, or even as a WIP bag. Make this free crochet pattern for yourself or someone you know.
One day, I saw a bag and thought to myself that a crochet bag would make a fabulous project for me to use the Alpine Stitch on, and that’s how the Caribbean Sunset Bag was born. I knew I wanted a big bag, one with a sturdy bottom, one with an i-cord and beads, and one that had eyelets as an added style. I love how this bag turned out.
The Caribbean Sunset Alpine Stitch Bag is part of Furls Crochet Blog Hop 2021, and I’m honored to be a part of their Blog Hop! You can find my blog hop information and previous blog hops here.
I used Furls Wander Yarn in different colors. Honestly, I played around with how to sequence the colors and I’m so happy with how it turned out. The colors remind of Caribbean sunsets, particularly those of my island home, St. Croix with its turquoise waters and the sun kisses the sea goodnight and the sky lights up in soft embers of fire.
When crocheting the bag, I knew I wanted a sturdy bottom where the bottom wouldn’t droop with weight. I used a plastic round canvas sandwiched between the bottom of the bag and the second layer of a crochet circle. It turned out great! Granted, I could have seamed the inside neater but no one is going to see the inside.
Perhaps, my other two favorite aspects of this Caribbean Sunset bag are the eyelets, or grommets, and the beaded I-cord. Another element I’ve always wanted to use in crochet is eyelets. I think they add an extra touch to a piece that says sturdy, professional, and finished. It was easier than I thought to attach the eyelet to the bag.
The other element I’ve always wanted to use was an I-cord. I used my Furls Lucet Fork to make the double-stranded I-cord. You can make yours with one strand. I tried 4 strands but the I-cord was coming out too thick and I knew it wouldn’t fit through the eyelets. But, the end result of the double-stranded I-cord is fabulous.
I hope that you enjoy making the Caribbean Sunset Alpine Stitch Bas as much as I enjoyed crocheting and designing it.
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How to make the Caribbean Sunset Alpine Stitch Bag
What you need to make the pattern
Materials
- Yarn – Furls Wander Yarn, #4, worsted weight, 100% Acrylic, 120 yards
- Cobalt, Surf, Canary, Ambrosia, Sunrise
- Hook – Furls Odyssey H/5mm hook
- Notions – needle for weaving in ends, stitch markers, scissors, Furls Lucet Fork, eyelets & eyelet tool (grommets), beads, round plastic canvas
Size
Approximately 13″ tall, and 15″ wide.
Gauge
6 rows of Alpine Stitch = 4″
14 stitches in the Alpine Stitch design = 4″
Stitch Abbreviation
ch – chain; st – stitch; sl st – slip stitch; MC – magic circle; sc – single crochet; dc – double crochet; FP – Front Post double crochet; CA – Color A; CB – Color B; CC – Color C; CD – Color D, CE – Color E
Special Stitches
Front Post Double Crochet (FPdc) – YO, insert hook into post of previous stitch from front, yo and pull up stitch, yo and pull hook through two loops, yo and pull hook through remaining two loops – one FPdc made.
Experience Level
Intermediate
Pattern Note
- Ch1 does not equal a stitch.
- The first stitch of each round will be placed in the same stitch as the chain 1 stitch. The pattern will assume that you know to place the first stitch in the same stitch.
- Ch2 does not equal a stitch.
- When placing the FPdc, you will place it around the post of the dc you made 2 rounds below. Essentially skipping the single crochet round.
- For the Body of the Bag section, it begins new round count, each ending count will be 118 sts
Pattern Instructions
Bottom of the Bag
Round 1: Using CA, 8sc in MC, join. <8sc>
Round 2: Ch1, 2sc in ea st around, join. <16sc>
Round 3: Ch1, *1sc in same st, 2sc in next st, repeat from * around, join. <24sc>
Round 4: Ch1, *1 sc in same st and in next st, 2sc in next st, repeat from * around, join. <32sx>
Round 5: Ch1, *1sc in same st and next 2 sts, 2sc in next st, repeat from * around, join. <40sc>
Round 6: Ch1, *1sc in same st and next 3 sts, 2sc in next st, repeat from * around, join. <48sc>
Round 7: Ch1, *1sc in same st and next 4 sts, 2sc in next st, repeat from * around, join. <56sc>
Round 8: Ch1, *1sc in same st and next 5 sts, 2sc in next st, repeat from * around, join. <64sc>
Round 9: Ch1, *1sc in same st and next 6 sts, 2sc in next st, repeat from * around, join. <72sc>
Round 10: Ch1, *1sc in same st and next 7 sts, 2sc in next st, repeat from * around, join. <80sc>
Round 11: Ch1, *1sc in same st and next 8 sts, 2sc in next st, repeat from * around, join. <88sc>
Round 12: Ch1, *1sc in same st and next 9 sts, 2sc in next st, repeat from * around, join. <96sc>
Round 13: Ch1, *1sc in same st and next 10 sts, 2sc in next st, repeat from * around, join. <104sc>
Round 14: Ch1, *1sc in same st and next 11 sts, 2sc in next st, repeat from * around, join. <112sc>
Round 15: Ch1, *1sc in same st and next 12 sts, 2sc in next st, repeat from * 6x, 1sc in ea st around, join. <118sc>
Round 16: Ch1, 1sc in ea st around, join.
Do not fasten off. Move on to the body of the bag. You will be joining new yarn in CB.
Body of Bag
Round 1: Using CB, ch1, 1sc in same st and in ea st around, join.
Round 2: Ch2, 1dc in same st and in ea st around, join.
Round 3: Ch1, 1sc in same st and in ea st around, join.
Round 4: Ch2, *1dc in same st, 1FPdc around post of dc from 2 rounds below (skipping the sc round)* repeat from * around, join with CC.
Round 5: Using CC, ch1, 1sc in same st and in ea st around, join.
Round 6: Ch2, *1FCdc round post of dc from 2 rounds below, 1dc in next st * repeat from * around, join with CD.
Round 7: Ch1, 1sc in same st and in ea st around, join.
Round 8: Ch2, *1dc in same st, 1FPdc around post of dc from 2 rounds below (skipping the sc round)* repeat from * around, join with CE.
Rounds 9 – 34: Repeat rounds 5 to 8, changing colors when needed. Join with CB at the end of round 34.
Round 35 – 38: Ch1, 1sc in same st and in ea st around, join with CC.
Rounds 39 – 42: Ch1, 1sc in same st and in ea st around, join with CD.
Stop here to mark the opening for the eyelet to string the i-cord through. Place SM in 7th st, 28th st, 50th st, 68th st, 88th st, and 110th st.
Round 43: Ch1, 1sc in same st, and sc in ea st up to SM, *ch2, sk2 sts, sc in ea st up to next SM* repeat from * all around, join. <106sc, 6 ch-2 sps>
The ch-2 sps are the opening for the eyelet/grommet to string the i-cord through.
Rounds 44 – 46: Ch1, 1sc in same st and in ea st around, join with CE.
Rounds 47 – 50: Ch1, 1sc in same st and in ea st around, join. Fasten off.
Make i-cord.
Using a Lucet Fork, and 2 strands of any color used in the bag, make an i-cord the length of approximately 38” without it being pulled taut. You can make it any length but not shorter than 35”. I used colors CC and CD to make my i-cord.
See tutorial here.
Straps Section
I have made this bag for it to open with the straps on the side. When you look at the front of the bag, the straps will be attached so that they open to the sides, not front and back. The straps will be approximately 1” wide, so the markings will be to fit that size, more or less. Important to note here, the join seam of the bag is considered the back of the bag.
From join, place SM at these sts: (17th, 22nd), (38th, 43rd), (77th, 82nd), (97th, and 102nd). You have marked 4 sections for the straps, each section is in parentheses for easier identifying.
Straps, Make 2. Use any color you want, I used CA to match the bottom.
Ch5
Row 1: 1sc in 2nd st from hook and in ea sc across, turn. <4sc>
Row 2: Ch1, 1sc in same st and in ea st across, turn.
Rows 3 – 125: repeat row 2, fasten off.
You can make your straps to any length you’d like; just repeat row 2 until you’ve reached your desired length.
Attaching Straps to the Bag. See pictures.
Attach the straps to the marked stitches, making sure not to twist the strap as you attach them. I used the same SM marking the sections to attach the straps to the bag. Place the strap at least 1” deep inside the bag for stability.
Once the straps are secured, using the same color as the strap, sew the straps to the bag using any stitch. I used a backstitch method to create a design when you look at the bag from the outside. But you can use any method you want to sew the straps onto your bag. See tutorial for the backstitch method here.
Inside bottom of the bag – optional.
I wanted to make the bottom of my bag sturdy so I used a plastic round canvas and cut it to fit the bottom of my bag. Cut your plastic round canvas to approximately 3 ½” in diameter, it doesn’t have to be exact but no bigger than 3 ¾” or smaller than 3 ¼”. This will serve as the sturdy base of your bag.
Make a 2nd bottom of bag following the directions above. I used up leftover yarn to make an eclectic looking inside.
Attaching the canvas and bottom of bag to the inside.
Use SM to secure the 2nd bottom of bag in place, leaving a wide enough opening to insert the plastic round canvas. There’s no exact way of doing this; just try to make your stitches line up as evenly as you can. My stitches somehow didn’t line up well, and it looked funky, but it’s the inside of the bag and it will not be seen. See pictures.
Sew the bottom of the bag, on the inside, to the bottom of the bag. I used a different color of yarn so that it could stand out. Use any color you’d like. You don’t have to secure the plastic round canvas with your sewing. See pictures.
Adding eyelets to the bag – optional.
Using an eyelet tool and eyelets, you will now add the eyelets to the 6 ch-2 spaces made in Round 43 of the Body of Bag. See a full tutorial here, and some pictures.
Once your eyelets have been attached to your bag, string through your i-cord. You can add beads like I did if you’d like.
What colors will you choose?
What colors will you choose to make your very own Caribbean Sunset Alpine Stitch Bag?
If you made the bag, how did you enjoy it? I’d love to hear your thoughts!
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