This free pattern uses the beautiful and versatile filet crochet technique creating a lovely honeycomb design throughout the entire cowl.
About the Yarn and Color
During the spring of 2020, I had received two gorgeous hand dyed skeins of 100% superwash merino yarn in worsted weight by KT and The Squid. The intention was to have a Fall release but alas life got away and the release is just a tad late.
I’ve been on a mustard, or deep yellow kick lately that I have been truly loving. The color I used for the Honeycomb Filet Crochet Cowl is the perfect shade of yellow for me. Being completely transparent, I set out to design a cowl that featured a diamond using Filet Crochet but in a serendipitous turn of events, the design came out looking more like a honeycomb.
When you think of honeycombs, what comes to mind? Bees. Shape. Honey. And, yes.. the color. A beautiful golden yellow color that just brightens your day. I do believe the yarn and its color had other intentions with the design it turned out to have. I couldn’t be any happier with the honeycomb design that I unintentionally set out to make in this free pattern for you.
About Filet Crochet
What is Filet Crochet? Sounds something like a filet (slice of) meat, right? But.. it isn’t! Filet Crochet is a gorgeous crochet technique that allows you to create some gorgeous, elegant, and exquisite designs by using positive and negative spaces (closed and open spaces). Basically a positive space (closed) in Filet Crochet is the design, the main focus; the negative space (open) is the area surrounding the design that allows it to shine and be seen.
Arguably, you can use any stitch you’d like for Filet Crochet but the main stitch that’s used most often is the DC (double crochet) stitch. If you know you to make a dc stitch, and how to do a chain, you will be able to easily grasp the Filet Crochet technique.
How to use Filet Crochet for a Design
To create a design using Filet Crochet, you use 4 dc stitches for your positive (closed) space that will be part of your design. Then you chain 2 stitches and skip 2 stitches for your negative (open) space that will surround your design. In my design, however, I had to cheat a bit and use 3 chains in some instances for the integrity of the design.
How to Wear a Cowl
I love cowls! I love their versatility in length and width. When you think of cowls, there really only seems to be one way of wearing them. Technically, yes, you just put them over your head and on your shoulders, voila!
But, dig a bit deeper into its styling, and you’ll find that depending on the cowl, you can wear the cowl up close to your neck for those colder days. You can wear it loose around your neck for a more scarf like look. You can take an infinity scarf and double or triple wrap it around your neck for a specific desired look.
Honestly, there’s no one right or wrong way to wear a cowl. You can get as creative as you’d like. I tend to like cowls that sit right at my chest because I know it’ll keep me warm and worn under a coat, I can zip my coat up and push the cowl closer to my neck while still keeping my chest warm.
More Free Cowl Patterns for you to enjoy
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How to Crochet the Honeycomb Filet Crochet Cowl
Materials
- KT and the Squid Hand Dyed Yarn Squid Worsted, 100% Superwash Merino, #4 worsted weight, 181 yards (2)
- 6/J Hook – I used my Furls Turquoise Odyssey
- Scissors, needle for weaving in ends, stitch marker, blocking mat and pins
Size
After blocking and before seaming: ~33” L x ~18” W
Gauge
Not critical for this project
Stitch Abbreviation
Ch – chain; st – stitch; sk – skip; ea – each; sc – single crochet; hdc – half double crochet; dc – double crochet; Fhdc – foundation half double crochet; FPsc – front post single crochet; FPdc – front post double crochet; BPdc – back post double crochet; RS – right side; WS – wrong side; YO/yo – yarn over
Special Stitches
Fhdc (foundation half double crochet)
Ch2, yo, insert hook into 2nd chain from hook, pull up loop (3 loops on hook), yo, pull loop through first loop (3 loops on hook), yo, pull loop through all 3 loops on hook, 1 Fhdc made. See Moogly blog tutorial here: https://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-half-double-crochet/
FPsc (front post single crochet)
Insert hook from the FRONT of the sc post below and around the back of the same sc post. The post of the sc st should be in FRONT of your hook. YO, pull through the post (2 loops on hook), yo and pull through both loops. One FPsc completed. You’re basically doing a sc but through the front of the post of the sc in the row below. Photo tutorial here: https://stitchesnscraps.com/tutorial-front-back-post-single-crochet-fpsc-bpsc/
FPdc (front post double crochet)
YO, insert hook from the FRONT of the dc post below and around the back of the same dc post. The post of the dc st should be in FRONT of your hook. YO, pull through the post (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through 2 loops (2 loops left on hook), yo and pull through both loops. One FPdc completed. You’re basically doing a dc but through the front of the post of the dc in the row. Video tutorial here: https://www.mooglyblog.com/post-stitches-raisedrelief/
BPdc (back post double crochet)
YO, insert hook from the BACK of the dc post below and around the front of the same dc post. The post of the dc st should be behind your hook. YO, pull through the post (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through 2 loops (2 loops left on hook), yo and pull through both loops. One BPdc completed. You’re basically doing a dc but through the back of the post of the dc in the row. Video tutorial here: https://www.mooglyblog.com/post-stitches-raisedrelief/
Experience Level
Beginner to experienced.
Pattern Notes
- Ch1 does not equal a stitch.
- Ch2 equals an hdc stitch
- Ch3 equals a dc stitch
- Ch5 equals a dc stitch plus 2 chain stitches
- Use a stitch marker to mark the RS of your piece.
- Repeat instructions in brackets [] the number of times indicated behind them.
Pattern Instructions
Row 1: Fhdc – 49, turn.
Row 2: Ch3, dc in next 21 sts, [ch2, sk 2sts, dc in next] 2x, dc in next 21 sts, turn.
Row 3: Ch5, sk 2 sts, dc in next 16 sts, [ch2, sk 2sts, dc in next] 4x, dc in next 15 sts, ch2, sk 2sts, dc in last st, turn. RS
Row 4: Ch5, sk 2 sts, dc in next, ch2, sk 2sts, dc in next 10 sts, [ch2, sk 2sts, dc in next] 2x, dc in next 6 sts, [ch2, sk 2sts, dc in next] 2x, dc in next 9 sts, [ch2, sk 2sts, dc in nex] 2x, turn.
Row 5: Ch5, sk 2 sts, dc in next, [ch2, sk 2sts, dc in next] 2x, dc in next 3 sts, [ch2, sk 2sts, dc in next] 2x, dc in next 12 sts, [ch2, sk 2sts, dc in next] 2x, dc in next 3 sts, [ch2, sk 2sts, dc in next] 3x, turn.
Row 6: Ch5, sk 2 sts, dc in next, ch2, sk 2sts, dc in next, ch3, sk 3sts, dc in next 2sts, ch3, sk 3sts, dc in next 19 sts, ch3, sk 3sts, dc in next 2sts, ch3, sk 3sts, dc in next st, [ch2, sk 2sts, dc in next] 2x, turn.
Row 7: Ch5, sk 2 sts, dc in next, [ch2, sk 2sts, dc in next] 4x, dc in next 18sts, [ch2, sk 2sts, dc in next] 5x, turn.
Row 8: Ch5, sk 2 sts, dc in next, ch2, sk 2sts, dc in next, ch3, sk 3sts, dc in next 2sts, ch3, sk 3sts, dc in next 19 sts, ch3, sk 3sts, dc in next 2sts, ch3, sk 3sts, dc in next st, [ch2, sk 2sts, dc in next] 2x, turn.
Row 9: Ch5, sk 2 sts, dc in next, [ch2, sk 2sts, dc in next] 2x, dc in next 3 sts, [ch2, sk 2sts, dc in next] 2x, dc in next 12 sts, [ch2, sk 2sts, dc in next] 2x, dc in next 3 sts, [ch2, sk 2sts, dc in next] 3x, turn.
Row 10: Ch5, sk 2 sts, dc in next, ch2, sk 2sts, dc in next 10 sts, [ch2, sk 2sts, dc in next] 2x, dc in next 6 sts, [ch2, sk 2sts, dc in next] 2x, dc in next 9 sts, [ch2, sk 2sts, dc in nex] 2x, turn.
Row 11: Ch5, sk 2 sts, dc in next 16 sts, [ch2, sk 2sts, dc in next] 4x, dc in next 15 sts, ch2, sk 2sts, dc in last st, turn.
Row 12: Ch3, dc in next 21 sts, [ch2, sk 2sts, dc in next] 2x, dc in next 21 sts, turn.
Row 13: Ch3, dc in next 21 sts, [ch2, sk 2sts, dc in next] 2x, dc in next 21 sts, turn.
Rows 14 – 25: Repeat Rows 2 – 13.
Rows 26 – 37: Repeat Rows 2 – 13.
Rows 38 – 48: Repeat Rows 2 – 12.
Row 49: Ch2, hdc in the next st, and in ea st across. <49 hdc>
Do Not Fasten Off. Move on to edging.
Edging:
Note: While I gave a stitch amount that I used for the edging, it’s really not imperative that you get the same amount. As long as you get close enough within 2-3 stitches that should be fine.
Without turning, work alongside the left edge of the piece.
Row 1: Ch1, place hdc sts evenly down the side, turn. I got 118 hdc sts.
Row 2: Ch2, hdc in same st, [FPdc in next st, hdc in next] 58x, hdc in last st. <118 sts>
Row 3: Ch3, hdc in next st, [BPdc in next st, hdc in next] 57x, BPdc in next st, hdc in last st. <118 sts>
Row 4: Ch1, [FPsc in next st, sc in next st] 58x, sc in last st. <118 sts>
Move on to the right edge of the piece.
With the WS facing you, attach yarn to the bottom corner of the Fhdc row.
Row 1: Ch1, place hdc sts evenly up the side, turn. I got 118 hdc sts.
Row 2: Ch2, hdc in same st, [FPdc in next st, hdc in next] 58x, hdc in last st. <118 sts>
Row 3: Ch3, hdc in next st, [BPdc in next st, hdc in next] 57x, BPdc in next st, hdc in last st. <118 sts>
Row 4: Ch1, [FPsc in next st, sc in next st] 58x, sc in last st. <118 sts>
Do NOT fasten off.
Seaming of cowl
You can block your cowl if you’d like to open up the stitches. I blocked mine because of the natural fiber used so if you are using acrylic yarn, you don’t have to block the cowl, but it is recommended to open up the stitches some.
Block your piece by laying it flat with the RS up. After blocking bring edges together with RS facing you, and seam using the mattress stitch seam for a near invisible seam. Once seamed you can now weave in your ends.
I hope you enjoyed this pattern! I would love to see your finished projects. So share with me!
Much Love and Happy Hooking!
D!
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