This Summer Tote is my latest free crochet pattern contribution to

Cre8tion Crochet.

This Summer Tote is a great tote to have as a carry all for those quick, last minute trips to the park on a sunny afternoon. You can stuff it with your latest crochet project. Fun, right!? You can toss in sunscreen, a book or anything you’d like to. The Summer Tote is also great for a market trip. The Summer Tote is deep enough to safely hold long stemmed vegetables and it can stretch wide enough to hold bunches of fruits and veggies. The Summer Tote is a great, little versatile bag that is easily washed and folded away.

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Red Heart® Super Saver® Economy Size Bright Yellow
from: Annie’s

Pattern Testers Thanks:

Thank you to the following testers who so graciously testing this pattern for me.

Materials

Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver, #4 worsted weight, 100% acrylic in different colors.
- Colors used: CA – Aruba Sea, 150 yards; CB – Light Raspberry, 100 yards; CC – Bright Yellow, 100 yards; CD – Gold, 100 yards
Hook: 5mm/H hook
Notions:
- Needle for weaving in ends.
- Stitch Markers

Size

Body length – 13”;
Width – 10 ¾ “;
Entire length including straps – 25 ½”

Gauge
12hdc rows = 4”; 15hdc sts = 4”

Stitch Abbreviations
Ch – chain; st(s) – stitch(es); Sl st – slip stitch; sk – skip; sp(s) – space(s); sc – single crochet; hdc – half double crochet; dc – double crochet; Rd(s) – Round; CA – Color A; CB – Color B; CC – Color C; CD – Color D

Special Stitches
Magic Circle – See Cre8tion Crochet website for video tutorial: http://cre8tioncrochet.com/2013/03/magic-circle-or-ring-crochet/

Experience Level
Easy

Pattern Notes

Ch1 and Ch2 do not equal stitches.
Ch3 equals a stitch.
For bag bottom, work in continuous rounds unless otherwise indicated. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round and keep round count.
Keep close attention to Round 11 as instructions change a bit.
You will get instructions on when to switch colors, so keep close attention to that instruction.
You can make your bag longer or shorter by repeating rows 15 – 18 however many times you want. This patterns calls for a repeat of rows 15 – 18, four more times to achieve the length stated

Pattern Instructions

Bottom of the Bag

Rd 1: With CA, magic circle, ch1, 6hdc in magic circle. <6hdc>

Rd 2: 2hdc in each stitch around <12hdc>

Rd 3: [1hdc in next st, 2hdc in next st], 6x, <18>

Rd 4: [1hdc in next 2 sts, 2hdc in next st], 6x, <24>

Rd 5: [1hdc in next 3 sts, 2hdc in next st], 6x, <30>

Rd 6: [1hdc in next 4 sts, 2hdc in next st], 6x, <36>

Rd 7: [1hdc in next 5 sts, 2hdc in next st], 6x, <42>

Rd 8: [1hdc in next 6 sts, 2hdc in next st], 6x, <48>

Rd 9: [1hdc in next 7 sts, 2hdc in next st], 6x, <54>

Rd 10: [1hdc in next 8 sts, 2hdc in next st], 6x, <60>

Rd 11: We will be closing this circle; the instructions are a bit different than the previous rows, so play close attention. [2hdc in next st, 1hdc in next 9 sts] 5x, 2hdc in next st, 1hdc in next 7sts, 1sc in next, 1 sl st in last, join. < 64hdc, 1sc, 1sl st>

You can now remove stitch markers marking the rounds. We will use them to mark stitches for the next round.

Place stitch markers at the 13th st, 24th st, 46th st, and 57th st of round 11. Proceed to round 12.

Rd 12: Ch1, 1hdc in same st and in next 11 sts, 2hdc in marked st, 1hdc in next 10 sts, 2hdc in marked st, 1hdc in next 21 sts, 2hdc in marked st, 1hdc in next 10 sts, 2hdc in marked st, 1hdc in next 9 sts, join. <70hdc> Remove stitch markers.

Rd 13: Ch1, 1hdc in same st and in next 12 sts, 2hdc in next, 1hdc in next 11 sts, 2hdc in next, 1hdc in next 22 sts, 2hdc in next, 1hdc in next 11 sts, 2hdc in next, 1hdc in next 9 sts, join. <74hdc>

Rd 14: Ch1, 1hdc in same st and in next 13 sts, 2hdc in next, 1hdc in next 12 sts, 2hdc in next, 1hdc in next 23 sts, 2hdc in next, 1hdc in next 12 sts, 2hdc in next, 1hdc in next 9 sts, join. <78hdc> Switch to CB on sl st.

Body of Bag

Rd 15: ch3 (counts as a dc), dc in next 2 sts, [ch1, sk1 st, 1dc in next 3 sts] 18x, ch1, sk1 st, 1dc in next 2 sts, join. <59dc, 19 ch-1 sps> The ending of the round in this section may seem like there are some stitches that are missing. This is not the case. It’s just how the bag was designed.

Rd 16: sl st to next dc (Switch it CC on this sl st), ch3, dc in next st and ch-1 sp, [ch1, sk1 st, dc in next 2 sts and ch-1 sp] 18x, ch1, sk1 st, dc in next 2 sts (the placement of this second dc is tricky, it will be placed in the ch3 of the previous row that counts as a dc), join. <59dc, 19 ch-1 sps>

Rd 17: sl st in next 2 sts (Switch to CA on last sl st), ch3, dc in ch-1 sp, dc in next st, [ch1, sk1 st, dc in next 3 sts, including the ch-1 sp] 18x, ch1, sk1 st, dc in next 2 sts (these are the sl sts made in previous row), join (switch to CD on this sl st join). <59dc, 19 ch-1 sps>

Rd 18: ch1, 1sc in same st and ea st around, including the ch-1 sps, join. <78sc>

Rds 19 – 34: repeat rounds 15 – 18.

Straps section

Several things to keep in mind as you go forward with the strap section:

The seam of your bag (the section where you join rounds) will be your guide. Fold bag in half with the seam in the middle. See picture.
Straps will be worked from one side of the bag to the other side of the bag. See picture.
For both straps, the color scheme is: CD, CB, CC, CA, CD
When cutting your yarn to switch colors, be sure to leave a long tail (4”-5”) so that you can securely weave in your ends thus making your strap strong and safe.

Strap 1 – place stitch marker at 15th st, and 64th st, – this is correct even though it doesn’t seem like it.

Strap 2 – place stitch marker at 25th st, and 54th st

Working Strap 1:

Row 1: With CD, join to pm 64, ch 100, and join to pm 15 taking care NOT to twist the chain.

Row 2: Switching to CB, join with a sl st to the next st (this st will be to the right of the pm), ch1, turn, 1sc in ea st of the chain across, <100 sc>

Row 3: Switching to CC, join with a sl st to the next st (immediately to the left), ch1, turn, 1sc in ea st across, <100 sc>

Row 4: Switching to CA, join with sl st to the next st (immediately to the right), ch1, turn, 1sc in ea st across, <100 sc>

Row 5: Switching to CD, join with sl st to the next st (immediately to the left), ch1, turn, 1sc in ea st across, <100 sc>. Fasten off.

Working Strap 2:

Row 1: With CD, join to pm 54, ch 100, and join to pm 25 taking care NOT to twist the chain.

Row 2: Switching to CB, join with a sl st to the next st (immediately to the left), ch1, turn, 1sc in ea st of the chain across, <100 sc>

Row 3: Switching to CC, join with a sl st to the next st (immediately to the right), ch1, turn, 1sc in ea st across, <100 sc>

Row 4, Switching to CA, join with a sl st to the next st (immediately to the left), ch1, turn, 1sc in ea st across, <100 sc>

Row 5: Switching to CD, join with a sl st to the next st (immediately to the right), ch1, turn, 1sc in ea st across, <100 sc>.

Fasten off.
Weave in ends.

Sample Pics of where to attach straps.